Cities were built along the coast and waterways because people rely on the ocean to feed themselves and transport goods. -the highest part of the wave the seafloor has an trough located just offshore andparallel to the beach offshore sand bars block some of the wave energy a depression or shallow channel runs offshore from the beach there are headlands along the coast the first part of each wave crest starts to break Period. -the highest part of the wave 21) Waves converge on headlands due to: A) constructive interference. When a meander from the gulf stream pinches off and isolates a body of water within the North Atlantic gyre, the body of water is called a ____. An estuary formed from a flooded glacial valley is called a: An estuary produced by faulting or folding of rocks that creates a dropped-down section into which a river flows is called a: The large outflow of the Columbia River into the Pacific Ocean, causes: Which physical factor(s) influence(s) the surface circulation patterns in marginal seas? All of the following are examples of features found along primary coasts except: Which characteristic would be found along a secondary coast? The gravitational attraction just between the Moon and Sun. tectonic activity on the seafloor A tsunami is considered to be a ____. surf swells spilling breakers c.wave diffraction. has very high high tides and very low low tides. What is difference between in vivo and in vitro? A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to at least _____. As the bay is surrounded by land, one can come across calmer waters than the oceans. How are headlands and bays formed a level geography? If caught in a rip current, it is best to swim parallel to shore, until you are out of the rip current, before swimming toward shore. (B) Wave diffraction and reflection in Koieie Loko Ia fishpond. b.Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during summer. e.Tides are not impacted by the eccentricity of Earths orbit about the Sun. 5.4. As a wave advances, and each time it breaks, it loses energy. Sediment layer with larger particles on the bottom and finer particles toward the top. -The waves are moving more slowly just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. Warm currents flowing ____ on the ____ sides of continents produce warm, humid conditions. A. constructive interference B. wave refraction C. wave diffraction D. destructive interference E. wave reflection Which of the following, from earliest to latest, represents the typical wave formation? -The depth of the wave base is one-half the wavelength of the waves. 5.21). Wave steepness increases. (CaCO3), Foraminifera, Coccolithophores, Misc. c.Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during fall. The false-color map of sea surface temperatures shown below is an example of which of the following features? All Rights Reserved. Waves come into shore and break parallel to the coast because ocean floor topography is generally similar to the shape of the beach. d.coastal deposition. What is the relationship between wave base and wavelength? The center of mass of the Earth-Moon system is called the ____. How does sea depth affect erosion? Tsunami can be generated by geological activity that causes a sudden change in sea floor elevation, such as submarine fault motion, A. internal wave -Mixed interference The horizontal distance between wave crest to crest is called the ____. c.low nutrient levels associated with human activities. principle of decreasing orbital motion with depth. D) constructive interference. In terms of erosion protection from wave action, seawalls: Relative (local) changes in sea level might include: a.tectonic activity resulting in a regional coastline that is higher or lower. Tsunami waves and tidal bores are examples of surging breakers. a. What happened to the Screen Junkies Show? All of the following statements are true of ocean sediments except: Ocean sediments are thickest in pelagic waters overlying the oceanic ridges. The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the: Waves that are moving faster than local wind and are sorted out by wavelength are called: The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to: Tsunami travel as deep-water waves over the open ocean. -The waves are moving more slowly just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. . A wave with a 2-meter wave height and a wavelength of 1000 meters. Fig. Fig. There are surf breaks all over the Pacific ocean basin. A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves. 5.8). How long does gammon steaks take in the oven? Landforms and beach slope can be affected by waves. This process is called shoaling, and it causes the height of waves to increase (Fig. A wave cut platform refers to the narrow flat area often seen at the base of a sea cliff caused by the action of the waves. where storm waves move against strong surface currents. -When waves with identical wavelengths interfere. surface currents form circular patterns in the major ocean basins called "gyres.". -The depth of the wave base is twice the wavelength of the waves. -The energy of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water. b. How do headlands and bays form on discordant coastlines? 51 Waves converge on headlands due to a constructive interference b 5.22). 5.21. e.very little difference between high and low tides. -the upper limit of wave-induced motion in the water As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ________. Please let Knowledge Mouse know below: Please let us know what is wrong in the feedback boxes below. C)wave diffraction. the waves are in extremely shallow water; in fact, it controls the wave speed if the depth of the bottom is less than about one twentieth of the wave length, so as the waves approach shore, they increase in height, they slow down, and they get closer together, and eventually the wave becomes unstable as the orbits interfered with at As water gets shallower and waves travel more slowly, their wavelength decreases. Which of the following currents contributes to the South Western United States being arid? -the lowest part of the wave The El Nio Southern Oscillation can best be described as ____. Study with Quizlet and memorize flashcards containing terms like Waves converge on headlands due to:, As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height:, The speed of a shallow- water wave is proportional to: and more. Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical order of . The large, flat muscle that moves up and down to alter the volume of the chest cavity is the a. trachea. When I do it myself I get all the answers correct but I don't haveenough time to, Figure 9B-2 - https://www.ametsoc.org/amsedu/ds-ocean/oos_images/InvManImgs2021/Fig09B-2.png "The data for net primary productivity at Hydrostation "S" in the North Atlantic Ocean presented in Figure, Investigation 9B CHESAPEAKE BAY ESTUARY Objectives Chesapeake Bay, as seen in Figure 1, is the nation's largest and most productive estuary. d. wave reflection. The time it takes for a full wave to pass a stationary object is called the wave: Period. As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height ________. are formed when electrons are shared by atoms. In general the restoring force for wind-generated waves is: The celerity (speed) of a deep-water wave with a wavelength of 9 meters, relative to that of a deep-water wave with a wavelength of 1 meter, will be ______________. d.high nutrient levels associated with tidally mixed ocean water. In general, a good surf spot is one that breaks fairly often and in a manner that offers rideable waves. Destructive interference c. Wave diffraction d. Wave reflection e. Wave refraction. The California current is an example of which of the following types of currents? A surf spot needs to be exposed to waves in order to have surf, so exposure to predominant swell direction is important. Volcanic Ash. Based on the graph, which of the following has the highest density? Coastal features are constantly changing; the same beach can look different over the span of a season or even a day. Fig. Why does wave height increase as waves enter shallow water? Oceanography Exam 3 Flashcards | Chegg.com Wave amplitude decreases as depth increases. The height of a wave depends upon ________. water is pushed farther inland when the shore is gently sloping, the current flowing parallel to and just offshore to a beach is called. Image courtesy of Jesse Allen and Robert Simmon from NOAA, using data from Land Atmosphere Near real-time Capability for EOS (LANCE). Submarines sometimes ride out heavy storms in deep water by submerging. As water waves approach boundaries, their properties, including direction of propagation, speed, frequency, period, and energy, can change. Wave refraction at the headland increases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. Plunging waves form tubes or barrels that cascade water in a circular motion downward into the trough and break with a forceful crash, rapidly releasing energy. Waves converge on headlands due to: constructive interference. The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the: The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to: How does water move as waves pass? What makes them, will destroy them. Grunion spawning patterns have evolved to take advantage of ________ associated with tides. The energy of waves help to shape coastal features. -the highest part of the wave -Superwaves -Wave refraction at the headland increases deposition at the headland and causes erosion in adjacent bays. A disadvantage shared by wave, solar and wind energy is that ___________________________. The center of an open ocean tidal system is called a/an ________. c. Earth rotates into and out of tidal bulges. Remains of ancient rocks of cosmic origin. What is the major mechanism by which ocean surface waves are generated? What type of substances dissolve most easily in water? What is the crest of a wave? Solved > Refer to the figure below detailing wave:1188953 - ScholarOn The normal line is the horizontal dotted line. Compared to western boundary currents, eastern boundary currents are ___. Local weather does not often produce great surf because swells need time and space (fetch) to become organized. Use Advanced Search to search by activities, standards, and more. a. Water flowing out of an enclosed basin due to the tides is called a/an ________. If the bottom is very steep, the resulting waves will be plunging. Report a problem? Most ocean waves form as a result of ________. The map below shows some popular surf spots. 51 Waves converge on headlands due to a constructive interference b destructive | Course Hero 51. What is the wave base? 5.4 A) form where there is a moderately steep, sloping bottom. Where few streams bringing in lithogenous sediment. -the furthest distance a wave can get to shore before dissipating Spilling waves can offer long distance rides for surfers as the wave breaks toward shore. A tidal current can produce a rapidly spinning body of water called a vortex or ________. At the beach, a rip current usually begins where longshore currents collide and then flow together out to sea. If wave steepness ever exceeds a 1:7 ratio, then the wave breaks. There is constructive interference between the lunar and solar tidal bulges during ________ tides. the inverse of wave frequency Coastal waters support about _____________ percent of the total mass of life in the oceans. Waves usually arrive nearly parallel to the shore because ____________________________. C) spilling breakers. Destructive wave interference results in ___________. An area that experiences diurnal tides will have ________. Based on the graph, which of the following has the highest temperature? b. thick layers of evaporitic minerals (e.g., salts) on the seafloor. Make Print-Friendly, When you're ready to print, just click this button: c. there is not an established relationship between evaporation and Atlantic inflow. 44.The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the. Well known surf spots tend to have consistent waves, favorable weather, beneficial geographic orientation, and tidal fluctuations conducive to their geography. a. Term. Anoxic events (low dissolved oxygen levels) in Chesapeake Bay are mainly caused by: b.high nutrient levels associated with human activities. Poop from animals that consumed shelled organisms. Approximately half of the worlds population lives within 200 km of a coastline. Who did varane play for?Manchester United F.C.#19 / DefenderFrance national football tea#4 / Defender. You are here: Home When How are headlands and bays formed a level geography? Is Harlech Castle part of National Trust? a. to trap sand in front of their house. All Rights Reserved, Geology/Geography/Oceanography/Atmospheric Sciences, Introduction to Oceanography Homework Help, View All Geology/Geography/Oceanography/Atmospheric Sciences Subjects. -Wave period is the inverse of wave height. the supply of new sand to replenish beaches is cut off Definition. The first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the. Between thermal expansion and the input of freshwater (i.e., the melting of ice), what was the larger contributor to sea-level rise from 1993-2015? It issues tsunami warnings to 25 Pacific rim nations when data suggest a tsunami is imminent. ESCI Exam 3!! - Ch 8 Flashcards | Chegg.com -Water moves linearly in the same direction as wave movement. A closer look at the Hawaiian fishpond, Koieie Loko Ia, shows diffraction, as the water moves through small openings in the pond, and reflection, as the waves bounce off of the retaining wall (Fig. -The wavelength produced when a new wave is created. A curling wave formed over an air pocket is called a plunging breaker. The distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave. Longshore currents flow roughly parallel to the beach (Fig. The coastline is the boundary between the ocean and the land. -Wave refraction at the headland increases erosion at the headland and causes deposition in adjacent bays. How a wave breaks depends not only on the steepness of the bottom slope but also on whether the bottom slope is smooth or irregular, whether the bottom is composed of shifting sands or solid rock, and even whether the water on the bottom is calm or moving. Using the above figure and what you learned in class, which body produces the largest tidal bulge on Earth? What is the most efficient electric heating system UK? Which type of breaker is a turbulent mass of air and water that runs down the front slope of the wave as it breaks? Large deposits of sediment at the mouths of rivers are called. -A wave with an amplitude that is the larger of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. -The waves have shorter wavelength just in front of the headland, causing the waves to bend. Ocean waves can be classified by the way in which they form. The speed and energy of water in rip currents can be very dangerous. Oceanography Exam 2 Quiz Sheet - Knowledge Mouse That energy is evenly spaced out in the deep water, but because of refraction, the energy of the waves is being focused on the headlands. calcareous ooze (CaCO3, plankton shells) 5.10. If a coastline is all made of hard rock, then it will stay relatively firm and resistant to erosion and weathering, and therefore create a headland. -A wave with an amplitude that is the multiplication of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. -When two waves that have low amplitude interfere. The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) was established in 1946 to coordinate data from seismic waves in the Pacific Ocean and around the Pacific rim. In addition, the bottom contour has a dramatic effect on the shape of breaking waves. between two successive waves is called the _________. Energy travels as right angles to the direction of the vibrating particles in ____. The angle of incidence ranges from zero degrees, which is like a wave approaching a wall head on, to slightly greater than 90 degrees, which is like a wave approaching parallel to the wall. The movement of air across the ocean surface creates ____ waves. The waves touch bottom. 14. Over 100 people die each year in the U.S. in rip currents and they account for over 80% of rescues performed by surf beach lifeguards. Select only one answer. 54. The difference between centripetal forces and gravitational forces is called the ________. In general, if the bottom is very sloped, the resulting wave will be spilling. Tsunami have a very long wavelength, so they travel at very high speeds (equivalent to the speed of a jet airplane). What is the wavelength? -Rogue waves. due to evaporation along the equator, the water in these currents has much, higher salinity than coastal waters or surface water in the center of the. For reflected waves, the angle of incidence, the angle at which the wave approaches the surface, equals the angle of reflection. -the lowest part of the wave, What is the wave height? Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming a curling crest over an. What can cause a car to vibrate at high speed? Anatomy of a rip current, showing how currents parallel to shore intersect with the rip current heading out to sea. -the distance between the highest and lowest part of the wave a. onshore upwelling b. onshore downwelling c. offshore upwelling d. offshore downwelling. These three wave types are shown in Fig. HS-ESS2-5 Plan and conduct an investigation of the properties of water and its effects on Earth materials and surface processes. The Gulf Stream is an example of which of the following currents? Lithogenous, Biogenous, Hydrogenous, Cosmogenous. The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to: The area where wind-driven waves are generated is called the sea or sea area. -the highest part of the wave When this happens, waves change direction, moving toward the normal line, which is the line perpendicular to the boundary. Suggest a correction? What are the main causes of tides on Earth? -the time it takes for one wavelength of a wave to pass a particular point Want to suggest a feature? The speed of a shallow-water wave is a function of wave period. waves converge on the headlands due to wave refraction, they bounce wave energy back across the beach and cause erosion, When waves approach the shore and enter shallow water, the waves slow down and the wave height increases, seacliffs are exposed to wave action, and they are also steep slopes, which can make them susceptible to landslides. Waves with shorter periods have shorter wavelengths. Foraminiferans and Coccolithophores Tidal ranges will be greatest when the Earth and the Moon are at ________. Tsunamis look like walls of white water advancing toward shore and can cause great damage when they run up the beach and onto land. b.coastal flooding. As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height: The speed of a shallow- water wave is proportional to: A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is greater than: Wave energy is focused on headlands due to wave refraction. This is because offshore winds help to hold the face of the wave up and open, to provide a smooth, surfable surface. -When waves with identical wavelengths interfere. The interaction of longshore currents and eddy currents with coastal features produces stable, nearshore circulation patterns. . All of the following are lithogenous sediments except: Sediments that are very poorly sorted were most likely deposited by: Sediment that begins as rocks on continents or islands id called: Emerging shorelines might have all of the following characteristics expect: Large deposits of sediment at the mouths of rivers are called: All of the following are typically characteristic of erosional shores except: Sediment is supplied to the coastal zone by: Coastal erosion, local biological activity, and rivers, Rock Fragments wave refraction. 5.4. Coastal winds can cause upwelling or downwelling due to which of the following? The horizontal distance between two successive troughs is called the wave height. a.Tides in the northern hemisphere are largest during spring. This document may be freely reproduced and distributed for non-profit educational purposes. 5.10). Term. C. surf winds blowing across the ocean surface (wrong answers: density differences between water layers , Earth's rotation , landslides , seismic events ) ; An internal wave might form _____. -The depth of the wave base is three-quarters of the wavelength of the waves. c.contain more sediment than summer beaches due to high energy waves during the winter. -A wave with an amplitude that is the sum of the amplitudes of the initial two waves. -The wave pattern produced when two or more waves interact. Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical wave formation? -When waves with large amplitudes interfere. 5.19). You might want to use a calculator for this. Clay Minerals Of the following waves, which one has the deepest wave base? D)wave reflection. Based on the equations for determining the speed of shallow-water waves, which one of the following variables is necessary to determine the speed of shallow-water waves? 48.The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to _________. 2003-2023 Chegg Inc. All rights reserved. How does wave refraction at headlands affect deposition and erosion? Which of the following does not influence wave size. Waves are a type of erosion. -When waves with identical amplitudes interfere. -When two waves that are 180 degrees out-of-phase interfere. -The wavelength of the wave must be contained within a smaller water column in shallow water. -the bending of waves due to a change in wave phase What type of plate boundary are most tsunamis associated with? -a gently sloping rocky bottom Wave steepness is defined as wave height divided by wavelength. Most ocean waves form as a result of ____. Deep water currents move ___ volumes of water and are much ____ than surface currents. Refraction is the change in direction of waves as they move between materials with different properties. The color coding reveals that wave heights are associated with, Wind fetch is _______.

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